Wrong speeds/feeds

Programming mistake on the Haas TL-1 lathe. You’ll see what I’m up to in a bit…

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Vanagon – replacing rusted rear spring perch

Recently noticed the right side trailing arm spring perch was rusty, lifting from arm and the bump stop hanging on by a hair.

I think I showed the perches I made in recent post. Pretty well copy of stock except no flange on top of bump stop. Don’t know why I didn’t make flange.

But here are all the pics I have of the perches I made. Approx 1/8” steel, bump stop made from solid stock ( no right sized pipe handy) hollowed out a bit. Welded to plate on back side . Hdpe on top, with recess for spring pig tail. Those counter sink holes are a mistake, thought I’d screw plastic to the plate… no need .

Anyway… today I took van to work and got on with the rusty perch. It was ugly. Lifting at the rear. The plate is held to the arm by spot welds. So it’s common for rust to get between plate and arm. I thought I’d got all the spot welds with drill, but missed one. Chisel and hammer was the motivating force to lift the plate. Then power wire brush and flap disc.

I cleaned that mess up more. All the rust. Treated with rust converter. Ground down to metal around perimeter and clumsily welded on the plate. primed and painted. Notice the holes… why? I have no idea why I wanted plug welds in them. I tried but the rust preventative coating I put on… made welding not nice. So I stopped. Oh but before I welded the perch on I drilled and tapped the bump stop. Put a set screw in for now. I was worried I needed the flange that’s on the stock bump stop. The tapped hole makes it possible to screw on some facsimile if needed.

And plastic on , spring on, etc etc.

It all works but I’m not happy. Recently found out that the euro 16” Syncro had and angled aluminum spring perch, matched the spring angel better. I wish I had known this before. It would have given me more confidence to do what I had a notion to do. I need more courage. And I was considering a swivel spring perch. But no, I could have, but didn’t. Coward.

But it all works, good enough for now. But I’m not happy. Things can be made better.

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Vanagon Syncro – some shift linkage mods

During the engine and trans out ordeal the last month or two, I added a couple of mods. One was a new shifter “cup”. The part that fits over the ball thingy attached to the selector shaft.

I had made a few different versions of this part over the years and was using a simple cylinder shaped aluminum one. Decided to swap in a stainless version I made some years ago. Also made aluminum version of roughly same design but I liked the stainless. You can tell which is which in this pic.

You see both are split bottom designs. Doing away with the stock method of a roll pin to attach to the shift rod. I think it’s better with the bolt. No slop at all. Here it is with boot on. The fit of the ball in the cup is close, not binding close, but close. Lubed with sylglide.

Here’s the old oily dirty simple version. oh and you can see the guide bushing in its bracket. And I had put in a zerk fitting on the cup.. why? for gods sake.

Another thing I did was make a new plastic bushing that guides the shift rod just infront of the above part. My Syncro did not come with the booted bushing found in later syncros or the ones with the “bad weather package”. Consequently the bushing gets hit by road spray and dirt and slush etc. You have to routinely clean and grease it. I’d like to have boots on it, but until then I made a Delrin bushing with a Teflon liner. I won’t grease it. To reduce the possibility of the Delrin transmitting more vibrations to the shift rod than the softer stock bushing, I added an o ring around the middle, located in a groove. The computer model shows the groove in a refined model. I added similar groove to the part after I took the pic. The grooves at each end are for boots if I can find suitable.

Yeah, always for me the first go round of making something brings up things I’ve overlooked.

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Hazet Assistent 172hd

A bit of a tool gloat, but it’s cool. I think it’s an early 70s model. Came with some VW specific Hazet tools.

I’ve wanted one of these carts for ages, but they are so expensive. This one was a good deal. Believe me, it’s very sturdy and rolls smoothly. Not saying other less expensive carts won’t do the job, but when you see one of these in person and try it out…

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Vanagon – new rear spring perches

The van has been off the road last two months. Had to do some transmission leak sealing ( selector shaft seal) , clutch repair, and engine cooling line and exhaust work. Maybe I’ll post something on that business later. But while I was doing all that I noticed that my right rear spring perch was separating from trailing arm and the bump stop was also breaking off.

So I decided to make new ones. The steel part is water jet cut 1/8” mild steel, the bump stop was turned down 2” mystery steel ( I didn’t have any pipe or tube to suit. I did bore out the solid a bit though). Bump stop welded to plate on back side, recessed 1/6” in the hole for fusion weld ( no added filler). Yeah, I was a bit hot on the weld. I promise to try better next time.

The larger holes in the plate are for plug welds to trailing arm , if I choose to do that. The smaller holes are to be, or maybe not, tapped for M6 screws ( right thru trailing arm to). The screws to hold down the plastic part. I’m not sure if that really needed though.

Plastic part made from un virgin polyethylene left over from another job. This recycled poly machines poorly. Fuzzy cuts even with sharp cutters.

Made a recess for the spring pigtail. That seemed to work out ok ( 1/8” ball nosed endmill , scallop tool path).

Van is back on the road now so I’ll get the bad spring perch replaced and decide at the time if I’ll replace the other side too. Pics show old spare spring in test fit.

Here’s a pic of a model of the pad. I changed it slightly, slightly larger spring groove and led it further around

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VW Tool 681

I have my engine out, the old 2.1wbx. Reasons are a few, won’t go into it right now. But part of the work I need to do involves removing some seals. I thought it try making the VW 681 seal removing too.

Found drawings on the net, here is a pic

I made a model from the drawing in fusion 360. I’ll append this post tomorrow to include a link the the fusion model and a dxf file, for those wanting to make their own.

The drawing calls for tempered spring steel, and if you can do that it’s a good idea. I think mainly to toughen up the sharp tip of the tool.

But I used 1/8 304 stainless, as that’s what I had. Waterjet cut then tip ground on belt sander as described ( more or less) on the drawing. Oh and I added a hole at one end for hanging, and I engraved the tool number ( diamond tip scratch engraving, not the most visible)

Dxf and stop files here, zipped.

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Tirfor Griphoist

This winter I picked up an old Tu-28 Griphoist for next to nothing. I’ve been intrigued by these type of winches for years.

It was pretty dirty and missing the cable and handle. And a couple of the nylon bushings were worn, and one bushing missing. The idea was just to take apart and clean up, but as you’ll see I had the case and levers powder coated. And I made new plastic bushings.

The pics are pretty poor, I was just taking snaps to help me remember how things went together.

This guide helped me a lot

Couple of notes to add to the pics. You can see the three aluminum shear pins in the handle lever. Two sets of spares were packed in grease inside that handle. Might also be able to make out where the missing plastic bushing was supposed to be. And how the heck did a shrimp get inside the case?

The last pic is the hoist mostly assembled, I’ll get a better finished pic. And I’ve been absent from wordpress for a year and the changes to the editor has me a little stumped. I’d like the images in the gallery to be linked to full size… I’m trying … got it… clicking on image takes you to carousel of images.

Maybe dumping the images here might help anyone who decides to rebuild one of these hoists. For sure you can have things backwards on reassembly. I did, a few times.

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Simon’s van gets new underwear

Good friend Simon took his Syncro hitop to vivid vans here on Vancouver island to get the nether regions gussied up. New springs (schwenk), new suspension bushings, new rear brakes ( drums and pads etc), new rear bearings, and a coat of sexy paint.

Oh and new front bearings too. That’s a bitch job on Syncro. Good to have that done.

He’s got the trailing arms dirty already

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Vanagon – Bilstein shock perch spacers

Update, if there is any interest I’ll upload a drawing and fusion 360 model of the spacers.

Got a full set of the 16″ Syncro Bilstein shocks. I’ve already installed the rears but delayed the front install until I made up some sort of spacer to raise the spring perch a bit.

Made two sets, from some scrap aluminum which either 2024 or 7075. Im leaning to the former, but either one is a good choice.

Two sizes, 12 mm and 19 mm. With the correction for the suspension geometry, that’s about 18 mm and 25 mm of lift. But I’m not completely sure about the 1.33 X multiplier of the geometry.

If the weather cooperates, I’ll install the shocks this weekend.

Comments on the pics. First machining shot is of the shorter spacers, the second machining shot is the taller spacers. I used the tormach to do the majority of the machining as it allowed me to use the scrap I had. I didn’t have suitable round stock. Plus I could do other things as the machine did the work. The other end machined manually on lathe.

And yes, you can stack the spacers. That stack way too much but one could. I did play around with a designs that would allow adding spacers without removing shock. But I gave up, my ideas were clunky and I lost patience.

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Vanagon – inside the rear window defogger switch

It’s to do with a thread on the vanagon mailing list. I took apart a spare I have.

Not sure what that broken plastic bit was meant to do inside switch. Maybe a shade in the illumination system?

The two teeny incandescents provide light the translucent white plastic for the rocker switch icon, and the amber light pipe.

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Other vehicles – new shoes for the Howard 350

It was a barn find over a year ago. Original tractor tread type tires were flat and badly cracked. They pumped up ok and used the tiller for a season with those ancient Avons. Best substitute at a reasonable price (42 bucks a piece) were snowblower tires.

It’s a Howard 350, English made, with a Canadian made Kohler K141T engine. Apart from new tires I’ve:

– took apart carb and and fuel filter and ultrasonically cleaned

– took apart conical clutch and skimmed surface on lathe, trimmed friction band to fit better

– new oil in gearbox

– removed the spring loaded recoil start. It was breaking ropes and I just gave up after numerous attempts to fix. Simple rope start around crank now. Usually cold starts on about 2-3 pulls. Sometimes even one!

– cleaned and checked points

What’s needed:

– fix a brake shoe to clutch actuating lever to stop clutch freewheeling when clutch engaged ( still very usable without this)

– tear open gearbox to see why second gear ( highway gear ) , won’t stay engaged

– new clutch and throttle cables ( they work but ratty)

It’s a great, bit of a beast, rotovater.

Some clutch pics .

Pdf of manual

howard-350-manual.pdf

Pdf of parts list

350-rotavator-parts-list.pdf

Kohler engine manual

kohler_k91_k141_k161_k181_k241_k301_k321_serv_man_0472.pdf

Oh and why not show the fekkin annoying recoil start assembly

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Vanagon – ecu failure and fix

First off, I’d like to thank the vanagon mailing list members for their outstanding support and help. They were right there beside me all the way.

List info here http://gerry.vanagon.com/

Last Saturday as I was turning into the alley way that leads to my work ( doing plague induced alternate hours working) my van just died. No stumble, nothing.

Cranks fine, no start. I pushed van rest of way into work parking lot.

Then I started the diagnosis. Long story short, I found…

Fuel pump works key on

Ecu gets power key on

Coil gets power key on

Harness continuity to hall sensor and ground and power checks out fine

You get the idea, it all checked out. All the tests we would think of doing, including the Bentley manual ecu harness checks. Had work to do so that’s that for Saturday.

Sunday going over the same. Hall sensor failure was brought up. Well it was a candidate from the get go but I was putting that off. But I had to check if I was getting spark. Listmember suggested loosening distributor enough to raise it is shaft would turn and trigger hall sensor, watch for spark on grounded sparkplug. For some reason I was hesitant to do that but I was doing this alone and really needed to check spark. And I had no remote starter switch. I ended up with spark plug on case and video it when cranking. Yup,no spark.

Monday afternoon, evening. Back at it. Yes, the van still at work and I’m doing my evening shift. List member Geoffrey suggested brilliant idea of using timing light to determine if spark. I could cable tie trigger on and see the gun from drivers seat. No light flashing, No spark.

Swapped in a spare distributor. I had no idea if Hall sensor on it was good. But yet again no spark.

Tuesday, I took ecu out of its box, again. I had done that on the weekend to look for, oh, I don’t know what.

This time i found something. A bad solder joint on a power transistor middle leg. Bad enough that the leg would move in the joint. That must be it, I hoped. Mark and David on the list gave me hope that indeed it was the issue.

I reflowed the solder around that joint. Back up to work that late afternoon. Ecu in, and van starts. Not great, but starts.

I swapped the original distributor back in, and the van, after a bit of cranking, started. subsequent starting extremely snappy, much much better than before this event.

Poor pic of the bad joint, circled.

And in the other side of the board, the power transistor screwed to heat sink.

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Vanagon – Erin’s door

Sounds like a chapter in a novel.

Update April 5, Erin’s hanging issue. Pics at end.

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Vanagon – digital rear view mirror mount

Here’s a quick and dirty way of mounting one of those back up cam digital mirrors. The mirror is supposed to be clamped on to the existing stock mirror, but that looks very clunky. I’ve got a somewhat less clunky answer.

It’s just simple tab and slot construction, plug welded. I used 3/16″ aluminum. The uprights get spread a bit after welding just the get the mirror stalk ball in. You do know the vanagon mirror stalk pops off the mirror don’t you? And you do know the mirror stalk comes away from the van ceiling with a firm twist, clockwise or anti.

Anyway, you’ll get the idea from the pics. I think the concept at least is worthy of trying out in 3D printing. I’d guess it might even be better than aluminum.

Oh and ignore those semicircular cut outs on the edge of the backing. Thought it would be access to the reset button on the mirror. Turns out I goofed on assembly and got the position wrong. But on reflection, (see what I did there? ), it’s easier to take the mirror off the mount to get at the reset hole. That’s because the rubber band attachment things that came with the mirror work pretty well and no need for my initial idea of double sided tape. The fusion model linked does not have the cut outs.

Got a 1/4-20 bolt and wing nut in the pic. No need for the wing nut, just use a reg nut. Oh and I used a pem type bolt just because I had one. Reg bolt fine.

Again I have to say, take this idea as a staring point. While it works great and doesn’t look that bad, it sure can stand some refinement.

Here are the fusion files, if you can use them. The modelled mirror stalk is fairly accurate in the ball size.

mirror-back-archive.zip

Oh i guess I should mention the rear view cam used here, it’s the Toguard CE35-1. Seems pretty good, based on good friend Simon’s install. I’ll post some stuff on the actual wiring and install when I finish that.

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Vanagon – 82 diesel air intake elbow

Posted pics here for vanagon mailing list discussion.

The two parts were originally riveted together.

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Vanagon – led headlight as auxiliary lights

Ok, just hold your horses about the pros and cons of led H4 replacement headlights, just for the time being anyway. I’ll write about these particular lights later. For now, I’ll describe using one particular type as auxiliary lights.

I bought a pair of these from Banggood last February. Here is the link: [CA$104.34]7 Inch H4 H13 105W LED Headlight Hi/Lo Beam With Turn Signal For Harley Jeep Motorcycle from Automobiles & Motorcycles on banggood.com https://banggood.app.link/4DKhkY87b4

 

Used them as headlights for a year, they worked out fine, but I was struck by the idea of using them as auxiliary lights from the get go as they are completely sealed and have M8 threaded holes on each side of the body casting.

I made a pair of simple brackets to hold them to my light bar and wired them in to my old auxiliary lights switched power source. That’s switched by the fog light switch ( the posts about that set up is here: https://shufti.blog/?s=Fog+light+).

I’m sure there are other lamps that have mounting holes on the side, obviously the model and dxf linked below are for this particular light.

The old aux lights and the led light bar removed and the new lights wired to be low beam with first position of Switches and high beams in second position of switch.

I plan on rewiring system so the high and low beams on the new aux lights will be controlled, when they are switch one, by the stock main lights hi lo beam stalk switch.

Here is a dxf of the flat pattern of the mount. Btw, sorry about having to be zip files, wordpress won’t let me upload dxf or fusion files ( not to mention a raft of other file formats). The mounts are made from 0.250” 5052 aluminum. Love the spelling mistake I made.

aux-light-baracket-flat-pattern.zip

And a fusion file showing final bent shape.

aux-light-mount-bent-v6.zip

Read the rest of this entry »

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Vanagon – another approach to wiper arm rivet

Short story, made a rivet from stainless rod. One end with shoulder, the other end with hole ( to make that end easier to flare).

Worked really well. But I think it’s unnecessary work. Both friend and I had the same idea of finding Chicago screws that will do the job. And those screws are out there.

Funny thing they are called M5 Chicago screws, but the actual screw portion is M3. Pictures show better. Oh and you’d have to trim the length a tad. Is brass hard wearing and strong enough? I think so.

Back to my rivet. Here’s a sequence of pics using another old wiper arm. First couple show how you can hold the “c” connector in a vise and pull back on the arm to release hub. Head of the stock rivet drilled out and punched thru. Stock rivet 50 microns larger diameter than the Chicago screw… yadda yadda yadda…you get the idea.

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Vanagon – trying out a wiper hinge rivet sub.

A few posts ago I wrote how I took apart my spare wiper arms for powdercoat. The hinge between the arm and the hub was a steel rivet, had to drill that out. So what to do about reassembly?

Tried something this afternoon. Yeah, perhaps an over thought idea. Turned down some stainless rod to around 4.8mm, with a poofteenth narrower shoulder on each end ( the arm holes are smaller than the hub hole. Maybe it’s the paint.)

Tapped each end M3. I have some plastic pan head M3 machine screws, I’ll get some black stainless versions if I decide this is a good method. What gives me pause is I have to bend the wings of the arm apart to get the shouldered hinge pin, in the hub, inserted into arm. It’s kludgey.

But looks ok, arm moves nicely too.

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Vanagon – conversion table for VW tool 1301

I found this table online and I apologize for forgetting where, I’d like to be able to credit the source. I think there have been posts on the Samba with the same info.

In any case, the VW is used in Bentley procedures to test fuel and temp gauges.

David B. commented:

The Vanagon gauges are electrically the same except for the blinker circuit in the temp gauge.

Gauge resistance ~52R, input voltage ten volts plus/minus a half for tolerance of +/- half a needle width.

Top mark ~35R (fuel full or temp ~130C)
Temp blinker starts ~45R (~125C)
100C touching high side of LED ~82R (OE sender)
90C touching low side of LED ~106R (OE sender)
Top of reserve ~170R (adopted in later models as the calibration low point instead of bottom of the gauge)
60C/empty/bottom mark on gauge ~265R

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Very much not Vanagon – Glock sight mount adapter.

Was asked to make a reproduction of a plastic shim that, oh I’ll get this wrong, sits between red dot and mount on a Glock 99. The difference is, the new one was to be wedge shaped, around 4 degree taper. I had a go, black Delrin, and it worked. Little rough around the edges, I need to find a way to gently de-rag small plastic parts. Maybe a vibratory tumbler.

Anyway, just sitting back and waiting for the rush of new orders 🙂

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Vanagon – quick fix, arm rest bolt caps

Originals were a bit ratty, and a couple wouldn’t stay put. Made a set from black Delrin. You 3D printing folk have an advantage over us subtractive makers 🙂

Ok, bear with me, trying a link to the fusion 360 file, might take a few tries. Grrr, trying to insert model into a frame here, dint have the skill. This link though will take you to model and I think you can download.

https://a360.co/2uSXXHr

Hold on, managed to have a zipped file of the fusion model, to download without going thru fusion’s meat grinder.

arm-rest-plug-v3-1.zip

what a lot of palaver for such a inconsequential thing.

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Vanagon – cheap wireless tire pressure monitor

You must have seen these around. All the usual suspects sell them and I went for one last summer.

Around 30 bucks, worth the gamble.

It has a wee solar panel and function buttons on top of it and a micro USB port on one side ( kit comes with short micro to standard usb cable). There is a sticky type gel pad on the bottom to keep it in place on your dash, and that works well.

The solar panel keeps the unit charged up, mostly, after an initial charge via USB. I say mostly as the panel couldn’t manage to eek out enough current during a one week period in December. Weather was very dull, days were short.

Buttons on top of unit for setting things up. You can have low and high pressure alarm limits, and low temp alarm. Alarm is beeping and display flashing. The display changes from off to on when it feels movement , ie when I open the drivers door to get in.

The pressure and temp senders replace the tire valve caps. There is an additional locking nut supplied for each sender thats supposed to hinder theft and loosening. Of the senders that is, not the van.

The senders connect to the base unit with no fuss, and I haven’t had any disconnects between the two. Each sender has a button cell powering it, I haven’t replaced any yet. I thought the senders stuck out from wheel more than I’d like, but I haven’t knocked one off yet.

For the first while I was obsessed by watching the pressure and temp during trips. I wanted to see if there were any temperature differences between front and rear wheels during braking on long descents. Maybe I saw a 5-10 degree difference sometimes, but as the senders are sticking out in the airstream I’d say it’s not a good way of monitoring brake temps, but you do find out which side of the parked van the sun is shining on 🙂

All in all I’m pretty pleased with it . It sits on the dash, drivers side corner, not too obtrusive and getting some light for the solar panel.

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Stuff found in the workshop – ureometer and nebulizer

In a box of old glassware I have. Yes, I’m sitting on a king’s ransom of miscellany 🙂

Ureometer ( Info on this old medical device here)

I really don’t know what this “nebulizer” was used for. Anders Brand, Vancouver!

Update: more pics of the nebulizer. You can see the fine orifices on the end of the tubes inside. One tube is open at the bottom, the other tube is connected to the inlet. More label pics too.

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Other cars – restored Unimog

Secret location nearby, in for a stereo install.

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Other cars – oh the smell

Been a year, and my brain didn’t retain the model name. But I did retain the memory of the sweet old English car aroma. It’s the one on the right 🙂

Oh btw, the plan is a FrankenAustin resto. Not me, my crazy neighbour.

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Vanagon – Syncro coolant distribution tower

Last summer my tower started to leak. Everyone knows the plastic distribution tower / manifold weakens with age. The 2 wd tower is different in size and shape but same thing happens to it.

What I posted to the vanagon mailing list:

A few months ago I swapped in an aluminum version of the stock plastic coolant distribution manifold. The 2wd and Syncro versions differ in shape but not in function.

I’d always wanted to do this but what got me off my duff was my manifold had the additional feature of a temp sensor plug in one end. This is for the optional webasto aux heater that warms the coolant and thus the heater box. It was fairly common on Canadian spec Syncro.

The temp sensor is very much like a temp II sensor in that it’s a push in device with an o ring and retaining clip.

The o ring on mine failed and leaked coolant. Temp fix was new o ring. The better fix was the aluminum manifold which was easier and less messy to install than I feared.

Bottom line is, if you have the webasto aux heater in the engine compartment of your Syncro, or if you had one and forgot about the temp sensor , check the sensor O ring.

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Dream cars

Last summer I found these beauties. Way back in the 80s I almost bought, well I test drove and looked at, similar station wagon (safari). That one was way too rusty and I was a poor student with no need or skill to manage a DS21 estate. But here we have a lovely pair, someone’s dream sitting in the open.

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Vanagon – parking brake cover, recover

Another example of idle hands. I think it was from model year 85 on where ther parking brake cover was changed from a vinyl boot thing to a hard plastic shield. And on my 86 Syncro it’s the brown plastic. The brown plastic that does not age gracefully. So one Saturday last summer I took some thin leather, got it a bit damp, and glued it to the plastic. It looks fine, some little wrinkles at the hard curves, but acceptable. Have not yet figured out how to cover the actual handle.

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Vanagon – solar panel roof rack prototype

Still being worked on, as is, it’s fine. But front dam shape and side rail shape modified on the next version which is about to be powder coated black. Note that through complete luck, I can store one fiberglass bridging ladder up front. And disregard the clumsy fasteners used on front dam, that was just because… ran out of the correct ones.

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Vanagon – Syncro, Steyr badge

More output from the devils tools. Aluminum, on good friend Simon’s Syncro.

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