Archive for category vanagon
Update, if there is any interest I’ll upload a drawing and fusion 360 model of the spacers.
Got a full set of the 16″ Syncro Bilstein shocks. I’ve already installed the rears but delayed the front install until I made up some sort of spacer to raise the spring perch a bit.
Made two sets, from some scrap aluminum which either 2024 or 7075. Im leaning to the former, but either one is a good choice.
Two sizes, 12 mm and 19 mm. With the correction for the suspension geometry, that’s about 18 mm and 25 mm of lift. But I’m not completely sure about the 1.33 X multiplier of the geometry.
If the weather cooperates, I’ll install the shocks this weekend.
Comments on the pics. First machining shot is of the shorter spacers, the second machining shot is the taller spacers. I used the tormach to do the majority of the machining as it allowed me to use the scrap I had. I didn’t have suitable round stock. Plus I could do other things as the machine did the work. The other end machined manually on lathe.
And yes, you can stack the spacers. That stack way too much but one could. I did play around with a designs that would allow adding spacers without removing shock. But I gave up, my ideas were clunky and I lost patience.
It’s to do with a thread on the vanagon mailing list. I took apart a spare I have.
Not sure what that broken plastic bit was meant to do inside switch. Maybe a shade in the illumination system?
The two teeny incandescents provide light the translucent white plastic for the rocker switch icon, and the amber light pipe.
First off, I’d like to thank the vanagon mailing list members for their outstanding support and help. They were right there beside me all the way.
List info here http://gerry.vanagon.com/
Last Saturday as I was turning into the alley way that leads to my work ( doing plague induced alternate hours working) my van just died. No stumble, nothing.
Cranks fine, no start. I pushed van rest of way into work parking lot.
Then I started the diagnosis. Long story short, I found…
Fuel pump works key on
Ecu gets power key on
Coil gets power key on
Harness continuity to hall sensor and ground and power checks out fine
You get the idea, it all checked out. All the tests we would think of doing, including the Bentley manual ecu harness checks. Had work to do so that’s that for Saturday.
Sunday going over the same. Hall sensor failure was brought up. Well it was a candidate from the get go but I was putting that off. But I had to check if I was getting spark. Listmember suggested loosening distributor enough to raise it is shaft would turn and trigger hall sensor, watch for spark on grounded sparkplug. For some reason I was hesitant to do that but I was doing this alone and really needed to check spark. And I had no remote starter switch. I ended up with spark plug on case and video it when cranking. Yup,no spark.
Monday afternoon, evening. Back at it. Yes, the van still at work and I’m doing my evening shift. List member Geoffrey suggested brilliant idea of using timing light to determine if spark. I could cable tie trigger on and see the gun from drivers seat. No light flashing, No spark.
Swapped in a spare distributor. I had no idea if Hall sensor on it was good. But yet again no spark.
Tuesday, I took ecu out of its box, again. I had done that on the weekend to look for, oh, I don’t know what.
This time i found something. A bad solder joint on a power transistor middle leg. Bad enough that the leg would move in the joint. That must be it, I hoped. Mark and David on the list gave me hope that indeed it was the issue.
I reflowed the solder around that joint. Back up to work that late afternoon. Ecu in, and van starts. Not great, but starts.
I swapped the original distributor back in, and the van, after a bit of cranking, started. subsequent starting extremely snappy, much much better than before this event.
Poor pic of the bad joint, circled.
And in the other side of the board, the power transistor screwed to heat sink.
Sounds like a chapter in a novel.
Update April 5, Erin’s hanging issue. Pics at end.
Here’s a quick and dirty way of mounting one of those back up cam digital mirrors. The mirror is supposed to be clamped on to the existing stock mirror, but that looks very clunky. I’ve got a somewhat less clunky answer.
It’s just simple tab and slot construction, plug welded. I used 3/16″ aluminum. The uprights get spread a bit after welding just the get the mirror stalk ball in. You do know the vanagon mirror stalk pops off the mirror don’t you? And you do know the mirror stalk comes away from the van ceiling with a firm twist, clockwise or anti.
Anyway, you’ll get the idea from the pics. I think the concept at least is worthy of trying out in 3D printing. I’d guess it might even be better than aluminum.
Oh and ignore those semicircular cut outs on the edge of the backing. Thought it would be access to the reset button on the mirror. Turns out I goofed on assembly and got the position wrong. But on reflection, (see what I did there? ), it’s easier to take the mirror off the mount to get at the reset hole. That’s because the rubber band attachment things that came with the mirror work pretty well and no need for my initial idea of double sided tape. The fusion model linked does not have the cut outs.
Got a 1/4-20 bolt and wing nut in the pic. No need for the wing nut, just use a reg nut. Oh and I used a pem type bolt just because I had one. Reg bolt fine.
Again I have to say, take this idea as a staring point. While it works great and doesn’t look that bad, it sure can stand some refinement.
Here are the fusion files, if you can use them. The modelled mirror stalk is fairly accurate in the ball size.
Oh i guess I should mention the rear view cam used here, it’s the Toguard CE35-1. Seems pretty good, based on good friend Simon’s install. I’ll post some stuff on the actual wiring and install when I finish that.
Posted pics here for vanagon mailing list discussion.
The two parts were originally riveted together.
Ok, just hold your horses about the pros and cons of led H4 replacement headlights, just for the time being anyway. I’ll write about these particular lights later. For now, I’ll describe using one particular type as auxiliary lights.
I bought a pair of these from Banggood last February. Here is the link: [CA$104.34]7 Inch H4 H13 105W LED Headlight Hi/Lo Beam With Turn Signal For Harley Jeep Motorcycle from Automobiles & Motorcycles on banggood.com https://banggood.app.link/4DKhkY87b4
Used them as headlights for a year, they worked out fine, but I was struck by the idea of using them as auxiliary lights from the get go as they are completely sealed and have M8 threaded holes on each side of the body casting.
I made a pair of simple brackets to hold them to my light bar and wired them in to my old auxiliary lights switched power source. That’s switched by the fog light switch ( the posts about that set up is here: https://shufti.blog/?s=Fog+light+).
I’m sure there are other lamps that have mounting holes on the side, obviously the model and dxf linked below are for this particular light.
The old aux lights and the led light bar removed and the new lights wired to be low beam with first position of Switches and high beams in second position of switch.
I plan on rewiring system so the high and low beams on the new aux lights will be controlled, when they are switch one, by the stock main lights hi lo beam stalk switch.
Here is a dxf of the flat pattern of the mount. Btw, sorry about having to be zip files, wordpress won’t let me upload dxf or fusion files ( not to mention a raft of other file formats). The mounts are made from 0.250” 5052 aluminum. Love the spelling mistake I made.
And a fusion file showing final bent shape.